In this story
Quick facts
- Place
- Across India
- Started from
- Each region's own
- Made by
- Weavers across nine states
- Worn now as
- Handloom sarees with a stitched blouse and fall
- saree
- handloom
- guide
Every famous saree is a place. The fibre, the loom, the motifs and the colours all come from somewhere specific, and knowing where tells you what to look for.
Banarasi — Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Silk brocade woven with gold and silver zari, in patterns that came with the Mughals: paisleys, vines, jaal lattices, the kalga and bel. Heavy, formal, the wedding saree of north India. Look at the back: on a hand-woven Banarasi the floats of zari between motifs are visible; a powerloom copy is often clean-backed.
Kanjivaram — Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
Thick mulberry silk with a contrasting border and pallu, traditionally woven separately and joined so tightly the join cannot be found (korvai). Temple borders, checks, peacocks, mangoes. The heaviest silk saree and the longest-lasting.
Paithani — Paithan and Yeola, Maharashtra
Silk with a pallu woven like a tapestry, usually peacocks, parrots or lotuses on a plain body in a strong colour. The pallu is the same on both sides, which is how you know it is real.
Chanderi — Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh
Sheer and light, woven in silk, cotton or both, with small woven butis of coins, flowers or peacocks. A summer saree that still looks dressed.
Kota Doria — Kota, Rajasthan
A gauzy cotton or silk-cotton with tiny square checks woven into the cloth, called khats. Airy enough for May in Rajasthan.
Sambalpuri — Sambalpur and Bargarh, Odisha
Ikat in cotton or silk, with the pattern dyed into the threads before weaving. Shells, wheels and flowers along the border and pallu, curved edges on the motifs where the ikat blurs.
Bandhani — Gujarat and Rajasthan
Hand-tied and dyed, with a raised pucker at each dot. The gharchola of Gujarat, in red with a gold grid, is its wedding form. Read our bandhani story for how it is made.
Patola — Patan, Gujarat
Double ikat silk, identical on both faces, woven a few centimetres a day. The most expensive saree in the country and the one that does not fade.
Buying any of them
- Ask where it was woven, not just what it is called. Every one of these names is also made elsewhere on power looms.
- Look at the back. Hand weaving leaves evidence.
- A fall and a blouse are not included; we stitch both to measurement.
Questions people ask
Which Indian saree is the most expensive?
The Patan patola, a double ikat silk from Gujarat that takes months to weave; a genuine one costs lakhs. Fine Banarasi and Kanjivaram sarees come next.
Which saree is best for summer?
Chanderi, Kota doria, mul cotton and jute-cotton: all light, breathable weaves. Kanjivaram and Banarasi silks are for winter and weddings.
How do I know a saree is handloom?
Look at the back. Hand weaving leaves visible thread floats and small irregularities; powerloom copies are clean-backed and perfectly even. Ask where it was woven, not just its name.