Is Jute Fabric Sustainable?

Jute is sold as the eco-friendly fabric, and mostly it deserves that name. Here are the good points, the problems, and how jute compares with other fabrics. For what jute is and how it is made, see Jute Fabric: The Complete Guide.

Is jute eco-friendly? The short answer

Yes, as long as it is really jute and nothing has been added that stops it breaking down.

Why jute is good for the environment

• Water: jute is sown when the monsoon starts and grows on rain. Farmers rarely water it. Cotton, in comparison, is one of the thirstiest crops.
• Chemicals: the plant grows fast and tall and shades out weeds, and few pests attack it. Little or no fertiliser and pesticide is used on small farms.
• Carbon: jute grows fast. One hectare absorbs several tonnes of carbon dioxide in a season and gives out oxygen. Its leaves and roots go back into the soil after harvest.
• Land: it grows on delta land that floods in the monsoon, where few other crops could grow, in rotation with rice.
• After use: pure jute breaks down in a few months and leaves no microplastic. Jute sacks can be composted, and jute geotextiles are made to rot into the slope they hold.
• Jobs: millions of small farming families in West Bengal and Bangladesh grow jute, and the work is done by hand.

The problems with jute

• Retting: the stems are soaked to rot in ponds and slow rivers. On a small scale this is harmless. On a large scale in one stretch of water, it reduces oxygen and pollutes the water for people and fish downstream. Better methods exist and are slowly spreading.
• Batching oil: mills soften the fibre with oil, which used to be mineral oil. Food-grade jute now uses oil without hydrocarbons; not all jute does.
• Blends and coatings: jute-polyester cloth, or a jute bag with a plastic layer inside, does not break down. The word jute on a label does not tell you what else is in it.
• Dyes: jute takes dye well, and that dye can be anything from natural indigo to harsh chemicals. The fabric is only as clean as its dye.

Jute vs other fabrics

• Jute vs cotton: jute uses a fraction of the water and pesticide and grows in a third of the time. Jute wins clearly.
• Jute vs linen: close. Flax (for linen) also grows on rain with little else, but in cooler places, and costs more. Linen is finer and lasts longer in clothes. Both are good choices.
• Jute vs polyester: no contest. Polyester is made from oil, does not break down, and sheds microplastic every wash.
• Jute vs viscose and bamboo: those are plant fibres too, but turning them into yarn uses a lot of chemicals. Jute is processed by hand and by nature.

How to buy eco-friendly jute

Choose pure jute or jute-cotton, undyed or dyed with natural or low-impact dyes, with no plastic coating. For clothes, a jute-cotton kurti or saree is one of the lowest-impact choices there is. For bags, an uncoated jute tote outlasts dozens of plastic bags, then quietly breaks down.

So, is jute fabric sustainable? Yes, as long as it is actually jute, with nothing added that stops it going back to the earth.